Jodi's Note: I wrote the following while in Kaz but never posted it. I've been thinking of our time in Kokshetau lately and thought I'd share some of my observations about the city. Check back next week for another Owen update.
The ice and packed snow on the sidewalk and streets is at least an inch thick and very slippery, but the fashionable women of Kokshetau go everywhere in high heeled boots with nary a slip. Perhaps the thin heels act as ice picks?
The women here are beautiful. They dress well – if perhaps a little dated looking from an American perspective - and take care to look good; they make even winter hats and scarves look chic. Some of the gorgeous Russian women remind me of my cousin Bev with their big expressive eyes and high cheekbones. We often find ourselves looking at the wide variety of Kazakh faces to try to imagine what Owen will look like as a child, a teen, a grown man.
Everyone goes to the actual offices of the electric company, water company, etc. to pay their bills as no one has personal checks. A few people have credit cards but they are mainly for businesses.
When going into stores and restaurants you do not hold the door open for anyone. If you do, you will be stuck there for at least 15 minutes as a steady stream of people comes in and out. Holding the door for those behind you also does not seem to be a common courtesy.
Mayonnaise, vinegar and dill are the condiments of choice. The salads have no lettuce, but some of our favorites are 1) apple, cheese, nuts and mayo, 2) chicken, cheese, corn, potato sticks and mayo, and 3) salami, cucumbers, red peppers, peas, tomatoes, croutons and mayo. We avoid the options with tongue as an ingredient.
All the cuts of beef are unidentifiable and pounded thin, and the chicken always has skin, lots of fat and usually bones. A lot of times the menu will offer items such as “Beef the Spanish Way” or “Chicken in the way of Petropavlovsk” and usually Rada has no idea what this means. Sides are separate and you can get mashed potatoes, French fries, home style potatoes and rice. Most of the time some sprinkles of dill is the only green thing on your plate.
Despite the high fat, low veggie diet, the majority of people here are very slim. It is rare to see anyone overweight, and then it is usually an older woman. Portions are much smaller, people walk everywhere, there are almost no elevators and perhaps people cook more healthfully at home than in the restaurants. Inna told us the mayonnaise was low fat. Not sure about that but it does taste different (and in my opinion, better) than at home.
There are dogs running everywhere and I’ve seen a few cats sitting on rooftops and window ledges. Amazingly the dogs seem fairly well fed (I think at least some of them have homes and people just let them wander during the day and bring them in at night) and are often playing and chasing each other. They also seem to only cross the street when no cars are near and at the crosswalks and surprisingly the drivers do slow to avoid them or honk if they get too near the street. I take table scraps out at night and leave them in places I’ve seen the dogs gather; I hope they find it.
The pigeons here are fatter than those in New York, and there are lots of little sparrows and a chickadee type bird here. There are also big dramatic black and white birds with long tail feathers that have a beautiful song. Rada said they were Magpies. Someone in our building hung a bird feeder in a tree below our window and I contribute old bread crusts and crackers to it on a regular basis.
Driving really is an adventure. There are no lines or lanes in the streets and more than twice we’ve had to jump out of the way on the sidewalk because a driver decided it was a good shortcut. Pedestrians never have the right of way here - even little old ladies shuffling along better get out of the street quickly. Horn use is liberal and loud. At times it feels very much like bumper cars just shy of the actual contact. Add in the fact that they don’t clear the roads except for the occasional work crew armed with shovels and twig brooms, and it is incredible that we haven’t yet seen an accident. There are a lot of nice cars - Toyota, Mercedes, Lexus, and BMW are all well represented - and then there are the Russian Ladas and trucks that look at least as old as the Soviet regime.
Life in Kokshetau can be difficult. The weather is harsh; jobs are not plentiful and pay is not good; the buildings and apartments are run down and rather depressing (in my eyes). People live with very few material things that while not necessary, do make life easier and often more enjoyable. Still, everyday we see children running and laughing, adults gathered in conversation, friends walking together. Much here is different – even the culture and some of the attitudes of the people – but at heart we really are all the same.
The women here are beautiful. They dress well – if perhaps a little dated looking from an American perspective - and take care to look good; they make even winter hats and scarves look chic. Some of the gorgeous Russian women remind me of my cousin Bev with their big expressive eyes and high cheekbones. We often find ourselves looking at the wide variety of Kazakh faces to try to imagine what Owen will look like as a child, a teen, a grown man.
Everyone goes to the actual offices of the electric company, water company, etc. to pay their bills as no one has personal checks. A few people have credit cards but they are mainly for businesses.
When going into stores and restaurants you do not hold the door open for anyone. If you do, you will be stuck there for at least 15 minutes as a steady stream of people comes in and out. Holding the door for those behind you also does not seem to be a common courtesy.
Mayonnaise, vinegar and dill are the condiments of choice. The salads have no lettuce, but some of our favorites are 1) apple, cheese, nuts and mayo, 2) chicken, cheese, corn, potato sticks and mayo, and 3) salami, cucumbers, red peppers, peas, tomatoes, croutons and mayo. We avoid the options with tongue as an ingredient.
All the cuts of beef are unidentifiable and pounded thin, and the chicken always has skin, lots of fat and usually bones. A lot of times the menu will offer items such as “Beef the Spanish Way” or “Chicken in the way of Petropavlovsk” and usually Rada has no idea what this means. Sides are separate and you can get mashed potatoes, French fries, home style potatoes and rice. Most of the time some sprinkles of dill is the only green thing on your plate.
Despite the high fat, low veggie diet, the majority of people here are very slim. It is rare to see anyone overweight, and then it is usually an older woman. Portions are much smaller, people walk everywhere, there are almost no elevators and perhaps people cook more healthfully at home than in the restaurants. Inna told us the mayonnaise was low fat. Not sure about that but it does taste different (and in my opinion, better) than at home.
There are dogs running everywhere and I’ve seen a few cats sitting on rooftops and window ledges. Amazingly the dogs seem fairly well fed (I think at least some of them have homes and people just let them wander during the day and bring them in at night) and are often playing and chasing each other. They also seem to only cross the street when no cars are near and at the crosswalks and surprisingly the drivers do slow to avoid them or honk if they get too near the street. I take table scraps out at night and leave them in places I’ve seen the dogs gather; I hope they find it.
The pigeons here are fatter than those in New York, and there are lots of little sparrows and a chickadee type bird here. There are also big dramatic black and white birds with long tail feathers that have a beautiful song. Rada said they were Magpies. Someone in our building hung a bird feeder in a tree below our window and I contribute old bread crusts and crackers to it on a regular basis.
Driving really is an adventure. There are no lines or lanes in the streets and more than twice we’ve had to jump out of the way on the sidewalk because a driver decided it was a good shortcut. Pedestrians never have the right of way here - even little old ladies shuffling along better get out of the street quickly. Horn use is liberal and loud. At times it feels very much like bumper cars just shy of the actual contact. Add in the fact that they don’t clear the roads except for the occasional work crew armed with shovels and twig brooms, and it is incredible that we haven’t yet seen an accident. There are a lot of nice cars - Toyota, Mercedes, Lexus, and BMW are all well represented - and then there are the Russian Ladas and trucks that look at least as old as the Soviet regime.
Life in Kokshetau can be difficult. The weather is harsh; jobs are not plentiful and pay is not good; the buildings and apartments are run down and rather depressing (in my eyes). People live with very few material things that while not necessary, do make life easier and often more enjoyable. Still, everyday we see children running and laughing, adults gathered in conversation, friends walking together. Much here is different – even the culture and some of the attitudes of the people – but at heart we really are all the same.
1 comment:
For a quick second I was wondering if you decided to go back for a visit! :-) I think between my struggles with extremely cold weather, a picky "vegetarian but I'll eat fish" diet and not being a fan of mayo would have been a bit of an issue for me over there!
Happy Easter! Always looking forward to the next update.
courtnay
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